build a keg still for whiskey (pot still design)

Still make a pot with a small bucket as the basis for making flavored spirits, this is my second note for making small buckets, the first one is still reflux, you can see here before I go ahead, let\'s leave out the boring legal stuff. . . .
Look at your local laws, and there are places where you can\'t even have a product that\'s still much less drinkable with it, check it out first.
I know in New Zealand you can drink by yourself and in the UK you can have up to 5L of wine if you have a permit.
OK let\'s go ahead, so why am I still making another bucket if I already have one?
It turns out that even in the still mode of the pan, the return can still not bring enough flavor to the spirit, because there is too much return, it will remove it.
You still need a pot when you want to make rum, gin and other flavor spirits, as the reflux will still remove the taste.
Now, it\'s worth it to still have a return column because you can use it to make vodka that can be used to make gin in your pan.
I now have a pot rest column and a return column that are all mounted on the same boiler and now I will repeat the boiler manufacturing process as some people may be reading this, but didn\'t see the original instructions, so I have to assume they don\'t have a boiler yet.
OK, here\'s your list of materials, I\'m going to follow the 2 inch column recommended by most people in the distillation community, in the UK, 54mm column, and it\'s expensive to buy, so I don\'t want to do too many columns.
You should use copper as much as possible because copper removes a lot of impurities from alcohol. Tools ----------
Hacksaw drill for welding copper blow torch heat pad metal file wrench and grip gloves (very important)
Hammer tape/ruler material for still life---------------------------
Lead-free solder paste 54mm for pipeline engineering (2 inch)
I bought a 1 m long copper tube at a small, independent local plumbing store, which cost me around £ 24, 54mm to 15mm, on eBay, the length of the 15mm copper tube is about 10 and the length of the 28mm copper tube is about 2x28mm copper flute hand coupler 2x28mm to 15mm copper reducer 1 x compression fitting 15mm pipe coupler
1x15mm copper 135 degree elbow 1x15mm copper 90 degree elbow a stainless steel barrel 50L you must legally purchase this 2 inch
The clip is also known as a three-Clover clamp device for making spirits and fermentation---------------------------------------------------------------------
Fermentation container, I am testing bottle alcohol meter using 25 l Bath specific weight meter purchased from local store, make sure this is a rubber bunching material for spraying wine siphon 18 inch plastic spoon gas lock valve and for cleaning still----------------------------------------
5 kg sugar Baker yeast water 1 x lemon 1 x tomato sauce sterilization compound vinegar plate soap---------------------------------
Note: Drinking alcohol is dangerous and can cause serious side effects. You should read on www what is safe and what is unsafe. homedistiller.
Orgok will introduce some of the terms I have learned from various distillation forums and communities.
Wash or mash: a mixture of sugar/fruit/vegetable/grain, yeast water, and nutrients that produce starting alcohol by fermentation.
A beer called Ale.
SG: specific gravity, which is measured with a specific weight meter, you can calculate your initial ABV using a specific weight meter, from which you can calculate how much you will end up getting.
ABV: calculate alcohol by volume, measure with alcohol meter, can use SG click here for calculator proof to calculate: the amount of alcohol in the product is sometimes called proof, 100% ABV (pure alcohol)
Is 200 proof, so a drinkable product is usually about 40% ABV, which is the proof fraction of 80: The final product produced from the rest stripping process: sometimes, doing the so-called stripping run with a pan is still the best, which is basically a wash with the aim of a second wash with the aim of finally getting a cleaner product.
Dunder/Backset: this is basically the remaining liquid after running, and sometimes this is used to add flavourI in the next fermentation, in the UK, I got a brand new barrel for £ 72 including delivery.
You should buy your keg, don\'t go to the bar and ask them to, it\'s not legal to buy one from the bar because the keg belongs to the brewery, not the bar.
It is unlikely that a brewery will sell it to you and you will have to find a company where they re-process or make small barrels.
At this point, if you decide to heat your barrel with propane, your practice is, but if you heat the barrel with propane or natural gas, I would suggest you be careful, it is not only difficult to control the temperature but also dangerous to use the gas.
Most accidents still occur when propane or natural gas is used, because alcohol steam is heavier than air, and if you have a leak, the steam will accumulate and ignite on open fire and boom!
The safer option is to use the electric heating element inside the barrel, for which you have to drill the barrel and then weld the element on the flange or socket, although there are bolts on the flange/socket, but you have to use a natural cork gasket made of a cork sheet.
You need to drill a hole in the barrel, the hole size of the flange is 64mm in the UK, this size is suitable for the immersion heater element, in the US, I think the element is smaller, so you may need to install more than one.
S. Drilling uses cone drill bits.
For the UK, use the 64mm hole cutter bit, please make sure it is the bit used for metal as shown in the figure.
2 flange nut.
25 BSP flange nut, the correct size of the UK immersion heater element.
Before you drill anything you need to measure and mark where you want to drill, it needs to be as low as possible in the bucket, between the two handles on the bucket, so that you don\'t beat it when you move it.
Using straight edges, ideally a square, measure down from the handle and make a pencil mark, then roll the bucket and make another mark down from the other handle, both should be at the bottom of the bucket.
Using some masking tape and some rope, tie the rope to the first mark, then pull the rope to the second mark, then cut it off and fold it in half, tape it tightly onto the barrel and mark the position in the middle of the rope, which is the middle mark between the handles.
Measure and mark the width of the flange/socket and also mark the middle mark.
I drew a circle around my flange and just marked the middle.
In order to get a seal on the flange, because the flange I use is bigger than the United States, I need the area to be as flat as possible, so I put a block of wood on the area I want to go, hit it a few times with a club hammer and flatten the area.
OK, we need to drill before you do this, place a center punch on the middle mark and hit it hard with a hammer, this Dent will prevent your drill from slipping.
You can\'t use the elements in the immersion heater as it is now, it\'s designed to be cut off before boiling point, which is not what we want and we want to be able to control it using a dial or knob.
To do this, you need to disable the thermal probes and wires in the wide-angle controller.
It\'s easy to disable the hot probe and remove it, just unscrew the wire and pull out the probe.
Buy myself a right angle controller with Triac, I bought about £ 5 shipping from China and it took weeks to show up, but it\'s much cheaper than buying one in the UK, just make sure your controller can handle the Watts your component can consume, My component is 2800 W and the controller I get can handle 3800 W.
Follow your controller\'s instructions on how to connect it.
It would be great if you could get a shell with your own shell, I\'m still looking for one for my shell and may need a maplin in the form of a project box. co.
UK make sure the cable you use can support the number of amps your heater is going to draw, and in UK, 16A is something you need to be able to handle the number of amps that the element will consume, I went to a plumbing store and bought some cables for the immersion heater.
OK, what we need to do is cut a section of 54mm copper pipe about 30 cm in length and then make a flange at the end so that it can be attached to the barrel.
For this you need a hammer and an iron hammer or something to hit the copper.
This is called a \"simple flange\" and we need to bend about 6mm at the edge of the pipe so that they have a 90 degree angle to the pipe, but you can\'t do it gradually.
You want to start hitting it with a hammer and turning the pipe at the same time, our goal is to keep a small angle all the way.
All you have to do is keep turning and tapping until you have a 90 degree angle, do it slowly and take it slowly.
Once you have an angle of 45 degrees, you need to build a slope around the edge, so that when you open the three clips, it pushes the column down to the gasket, we will later create a seal between the barrel and the post so that the steam does not escape.
To do this, you need to set up a welding level to make sure that the area is welded before you start, do not put the blowing torch directly on the soldering tin, otherwise it will gather and roll, you want to heat it until the solder melts, then pull the torch open, wait for a second, then do it again with fresh solder
Use a cake jar or baking tray to place the pillars on top to protect the working surface.
Once you have the right amount of welding, let it cool and archive so you have the right slope angle and you also need to archive the edges, so that it can be beautiful, round and neat with the flange on the barrel.
You will also need to archive the bottom of the flange as this will have Hammer dents and you will need to be smooth in order to create the best seal on the gasket between keg and the column.
For this part you need to cut 2 15mm copper tubes about 9 cm long.
Take your 54mm to 15mm reducer and insert a 15mm tube in it (9cm in length)
Make sure your flux is installed, just weld it in place.
Now add a 90 degree 15mm copper elbow and don\'t forget your flux and weld it in place.
Use an additional 9 cm long 15mm copper tube and weld on a 90 degree elbow.
Add the 15mm compression coupler now, which is the first part of the column.
The 2nd part of the process is cooling, and now the traditional lunar probe will use something called a worm, which is a copper tube coil in a bucket or bucket, through which water cools the coil, it\'s really hard to make and I think it just consumes too much storage.
I chose liebig as the cooler, which is a 15mm copper tube with a 28mm copper tube jacket and the water flows through the jacket to cool the pipes inside.
Cut a Root 28 m long 65 cm of copper tube cut a Root 88 cm long 15mm of pipe cut a root 15mm long about 10 cm of short tube.
Now measure 28mm down from each end and mark a point about 2 inch down from each end, which is where we need to drill two holes for the inlet and outlet pipes.
Now, your reducer needs to do a little bit of work so that 15mm of the tubes will slip through them, and there is a small ridge or knotted place to stop the tubes from going too far, according to the design, you need to use a file and delete it so that the 15mm pipe can go through it.
Slide one of the reducers onto the 15mm pipe, push along about 5 cm of the pipe and weld it in place.
Now push the 28mm pipe into the other end of the reducer and weld it in place, now, just add another reducer and weld it in place on the 18mm and 15mm pipes.
Cut 2x3 cm long 15mm tube, create a circular Grove at the end of the tube using a circular file, make it flush with the 28mm tube, now Weld on one of the holes, welding at the other end, I found it helpful to fix it in place with a clip.
Weld 1 of the 135 degree elbow to the short tube of the 15mm tube, and then weld the other side of the elbow to the longest end of the cooler.
Now all you need to do is connect the short section to the 15mm coupler that we have in the first part of the column.
This setting will allow us to separate the cooler from the main column of the storage.
As I said in the previous steps, you need a 2 inch three clover clip to connect your post to the barrel, which is also known as the three clover clip.
You also need a gasket to be placed between the post and the barrel to form an air-tight seal so that there is no steam escape, you can buy the four fluorine washers, but they are designed for the appropriate 2 inch sets, these sets have special dents on the washers, so you have to remove the ridges from the washers in order to work with your column.
I bought one of the washers and very carefully removed the ridge with a hobby knife, so I didn\'t remove the desired finger.
Then I wrap it with a PTFE tape so it creates a better seal, you don\'t have to have a gasket to do that, you can use the ring cut off the card, then cut it into small pieces with a four fluorine tape to make the gasket.
Once you have the gasket, all you need to do is put the gasket on top of the keg flange and when you put on the three clips, put your column on the top and you are not easy on your own, but I did it to do it.
I use the garden hose and now you need to add your pipe.
Connect the hose to the water supply to the bottom of the Liebig.
Connect the hoses to the sink/drain from the top of the Liebig and you will need to use several hose clips to secure them.
I usually do a quick test of the system before I start, for two reasons, 1)
To ensure no leakage, 2)
This way the cooler starts to get cold so you can see when the steam gets to the cooler and then you can turn on the water.
I have made a setup map because it can sometimes be confusing to look at it in a photo.
We need to make sure the rest is clean so that we don\'t see interesting flavors about flux and other things in the column.
I am following the advice I found on this forum post, which makes the most sense. 1)
Wash with soapy water
Rinse with clear water 3)
Mix with vinegar and water in a static unit and produce acidic steam after boiling.
Alcohol cleaning, twice, this involves making a cheap wash to produce alcohol, we can\'t drink this drink, so basically they suggest making up something cheap, I used a basic mix and I will go through it in detail below.
You can buy some cheap wine and use it to clean things that are still or you can wash the things below.
Cheap cleaning washing, you can use it as a recipe practice, 5 kg cheap sugar 2 packs of dry bread yeast 50g yeast nutrients boiled water, in order to kill any bugs in the water, this will not mold cleaning. Starting with cleaning everything with sterilizer, fermentation vassal, spoon, gas gate, cooking some water over a specific weight, I filled the kettle 2 times and put the boiling water in your fermentation vassal, start pouring your sugar and you need to dissolve all the sugar and continue to add cold water until your boat reaches the 20L mark.
Let the washing cool to 23-
26 degrees Celsius, this is because if it is too high, it will kill the yeast, the yeast will die at 40 degrees, and if you use it above 26 degrees Celsius, you will put pressure on the yeast, it produces more Ester, methanol (
Alcohol is not good, you can\'t drink, in fact, it is very dangerous for human beings)
They call it fuser oil.
In order to produce good alcohol, most yeast must be below 26 degrees, and they need to be around 23 degrees in order to replicate them26 degrees.
However, if you use the brewing yeast reading package, because some yeast can work at a higher temperature.
What is fermentation?
Basically when yeast breaks down sugar and converts them into other substances such as carbon dioxide and alcohol, these sugar can now be pure sugar, just like the sugar we use in cleaning, fruits, vegetables and even grains can also be provided.
Whiskey and bourbon are made of grain, and so is Moonlight (normally corn)
, Schnapps is made from fruits such as apples/pears/Peaches, vodka can be made with almost anything enough as it is a neutral spiritg.
It is a tasteless spirit, and it has a little taste in the United States, in Britain and Europe. The recipe is cheap and you can make half a decent vodka.
OK, so when you wait for your wash to cool, add lemon juice and a whole tube of double thick tomato sauce, mix it together and take some washed things and put them in the glass, put the glass in a bucket of cold water and cool it faster until 23 degrees Celsius or less, then take it out of the water and add 2 packs of bread yeast (
Also brew yeast if you like)mix it up.
This is called yeast starter, and sometimes these are ready a few days before you start the main wash, and the key is when the yeast learns to feed with different sugar, let your start wash be the same as the main wash, it takes 7 generations to learn correctly, which is why it is just as important to have your appetizer as your main wash.
The purpose of this is to give the yeast a start.
Once your main wash temperature reaches 23 degrees Celsius you can add yeast starter, I\'m not too worried I \'ve been waiting for a few days before adding yeast starter because it\'s just a kind of cleaning
Stir well;
You want to distribute yeast throughout the mixture.
SG should be around 1 at this time.
100 and this mixture of measuring it using a biometer is on the spot.
Open the lid and seal, you should install an airlock on the lid so that the gas can escape, but the air can\'t enter, I put some Vaseline on the edge of banger, to make sure it\'s tight.
Here\'s the video I checked for washing SG, and now I\'m saying in the video that the SG at the end should be 90, which is 1.
090 on the specific weight of the blue area, I recorded it and realized that I was wrong and should be below 1.
000 so between 1. 000 and 0.
The yellow part is close to 900 of the top, which means all sugar is converted into alcohol.
During the fermentation process, you need to make sure that the temperature is kept around 23 degrees Celsius, if you find that the temperature is warmer than in a container filled with water, if the weather is still warm, try putting some ice in the water.
If you find it cold, then you can put it in the aquarium heater in the container and set the temperature to 25 degrees Celsius, or any yeast you need.
Before you start filling your liebig with water, so just turn it on until the water comes out and turn it off.
Run your vinegar mixture first, make sure you have enough money to cover the element, and then a few more inches above it, you need to run your boiler at full power, until the water drops start to flow out from the end of the liebig, then reduce it to half power and turn on the water to make sure there is a bucket under the take-off pipe.
You will start to see the water coming out of the still and running like this for a few hours.
Let it cool and empty the boiler.
Put alcohol in the cleaning process and do the same thing.
It takes about an hour and a half to go.
You will start to see the alcohol coming out and don\'t drink it, it will contain all the oil and volume from the time it is built.
This is what you do and it can be used normally no matter what purpose you choose.
You should be able to get an absolute maximum of 75% abv from this stationary.
Most of the time you will see about 60% abv.
Subscribe to me as I will add instructions on how to make rum and several different ways to make gin.