home clinic; if the faucet won\'t stop dripping, here\'s what to do

Written by Bernard Gladstone Juni 1987, this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
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When a traditional washing machine
Type faucet must be overtightened every time it is turned off to prevent dripping water, or, when dripping water appears in the faucet, no matter how hard you tighten it, it will not stop, then it is wise to repair it in time, can prevent things from getting worse --
For example, prevent damage to the faucet seat and may cause extensive damage to the faucet rod itself.
Most leaks can be done by taking the tap apart and then installing a new washing machine at the end of the spindle, as well as replacing the packaging or O-
In some cases, surround the outside of the stem.
However, if you wait too long and you will continue to try to tighten the tap in order to stop dripping water, there is a good chance that the valve seat will be damaged.
The reason is when you turn on the handle of the washing machine
Type the tap to turn off the water flow. The threaded spindle or Rod screw goes down into the faucet body and presses the rubber gasket at the end of the rod into the metal valve seat inside the faucet body, so the opening is closed and the water flow is closed.
Unfortunately, when the washing machine is pressed on the metal seat, it is constantly distorted, plus the pressure applied above when the rod forces it to be in place, all of which helps the washing machine to wear out relatively quickly.
If this wear lasts long enough, the metal end of the rod, sometimes the metal screw that holds the gasket in place, will begin to rub, scratch and deface the metal valve seat, this way even the brand new rubber gasket does not form a water tight seal when it is completely closed.
In addition, these faucet seats may also be damaged by wear caused by grinding particles in water, and may even be mineral buildings that accumulate between washing machines and metal seats.
Fortunately, the metal valve seat is replaceable on most taps --
The old one can be screwed down and a new one is installed in its position.
Valve seats that are not replaceable can usually be trimmed or re-trimmed with a special seat trimming tool, which is sold in most hardware stores and pipeline supply stores for this purpose.
Advertising in order to remove the old valve seat, you first have to take apart the faucet, just like a washing machine to replace the end of the stem.
By closing the valve under the sink, or closing the main water supply valve next to the meter, turn off the water supply of the faucet.
Remove the handle from the tap, then unscrew the wrap nut or hood that holds the bar in place. (
On some models, there will be a large hood with a large flat nut fixed in place on the top, which is mounted on the rod and covers the packing nut.
With these you will have to remove the flat nut and slide the hood onto the rod after which you can get the packing nut. )
After removing the package nut, you can unscrew the entire spindle and remove it from the main body of the faucet by turning it in the same direction as it would normally be when opening the faucet.
The easiest way to do this is to temporarily replace the handle at the top of the bar and use it to turn the entire spindle assembly.
The advertisement after removing the rod replaces the rubber gasket at the end with a new washer of suitable size and shape (
If the old washing machine is deformed and you can\'t judge the original shape, then you can check that washing machine to see what the original washing machine looks like).
If the brass screw that holds the gasket in place is corroded or worn out, please replace it with a new screw at the same time.
Now shine bright light into the faucet body and check the metal valve seat at the bottom.
See if the holes in the center of the valve seat are round, square or hexagonal.
If the holes are square or hexagonal, then the faucet seat is removable and can be replaced with a new faucet seat.
However, if the valve seat is round, then it is permanent and cannot be disassembled.
Carefully check the surface of the valve seat to see if it has scratches, chisels or pit marks, or if it has serious corrosion, and apply a layer of sediment.
If so, if the valve seat is replaceable, it should be removed and replaced.
Most hardware stores and all plumbing supply stores sell specialized tools or wrenches.
Looks very much like an oversized Allen wrench or hex wrench (
In fact, for many old faucets you can use a large Allen wrench to remove the valve seat)
Some versions of this tool have both squares and hexadecimal
Forming section at one end (as shown here).
One of the other\'s arms has a square handle and a hex handle at the end.
The shape handle at the end of the other arm.
To remove the old seat, insert the appropriate end of this tool into a square or hex
The forming hole at the bottom of the faucet body, then turn the handle end of the tool counter-clockwise, and twist the seat.
When you go and buy a new one to make sure you get the exact same size, lift out the old valve seat and take it to the hardware store.
You can then install the new seat by sliding the new seat to the end of the wrench after applying the thread with a small amount of piping compound on the new seat.
Install it into the threaded hole at the bottom of the faucet body, then turn the tool handle clockwise and tighten the valve seat firmly.
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If the valve seat is not replaceable but is clearly chiseled or pitted, then there is a cheap seat trim tool that you can smooth it by removing burrs and rough spots.
Sold in most hardware stores and all plumbing supply stores, this tool inserts the main body of the faucet, not the regular spindle, when you take apart the faucet as described above.
Some models of threads match the threads on the spindle so that they can be screwed into the faucet body instead of the spindle, while others have a tapered guide that fits exactly the opening of the faucet body.
Either way, insert the tool and gently turn the handle until the tool end is leaning against the valve seat at the bottom, then turn a circle or two clockwise while pushing hard down.
Then turn in the opposite direction once or twice.
Remove the seat trim tool from the tap, and then wipe any debris or debris left inside with a small damp cloth.
Better yet, turn on the water for the time being and flush the pieces off, but be careful to put something on top of the tap to capture the water that is spewing out of the main body of the tap.
After cleaning the interior and installing a new washing machine at the end of the spindle, you can reassemble the faucet.
However, before doing so, it is usually a good idea to replace the packing material under the packing nut, just to make sure that there will be no leakage around the rod when the water is re-opened.
Some newer faucets have rubber O-
Ring on the stem rather than on the package;
There are alternatives to these products in all hardware stores.
Reply to email.
I have a covered porch with a concrete board floor.
I closed this porch and now want to lay a tile on the concrete floor.
However, there were several layers of paint on the concrete and I was told that the adhesive used to put down the tiles would not stick to this old paint.
Is there a way to remove all the paint or can you suggest another option? -C. A. S. Marsha pegua, L. I. AdvertisementA.
If you have to drop the tiles, then you have to remove all the paint first.
The easiest way is to use half
Paste paint and paint remover.
Buy a brand that can be washed off with water and apply it to a thick layer with a stroke of the brush (
Do not brush back and forth).
Cover only a few square feet at a time and let it soak on the surface for 10 or 15 minutes.
Then scrub the softened paint with a hard brush immersed in the detergent solution and, if possible, rinse the residue with a hose.
As a replacement for tiles, using an indoor/outdoor carpet is one of the most popular ways to cover this type of floor
This is much simpler than putting down the tiles. Q.
My asphalt lane has cracks in a few places but none of them are over 1/4inch wide.
I want to fill these out before covering the entire driveway.
Can you tell me what kind of material is used to fill these cracks? Which sealing material to use on this lane is the best? -J. S.
Hampton Bay, Los AngelesI. A.
Most hardware stores, timber yards and home centres sell ready-made products
Mixed black top patch material for this lane.
Clean up all the leaves, dirt, or other debris and apply with enough of this mixture to fill the cracks completely and leave a slight mound on top.
Use a piece of wood and a hammer, or hold it firmly on one of the wheels of your car until the patch is flat.
Add more patch compounds to fill more if needed.
For the sealer, use any better quality latex emulsion paint, which is also sold to this lane.
Questions about house repairs should be addressed to Bernard Gladstone of The New York Times, 229 West 43d Street, New York. Y. 10036.
This column will answer questions of general interest;
Unpublished letters cannot be answered separately. 3/4i 05-27-
The 87 1124A version of this article was printed on page CN11 of the National edition on June 7, 1987, with the title: Family Clinic;
If the tap can\'t stop dripping water, here\'s what to do.